A day in Caruaru - Capital do Forro

During our 2-week stay in Surubim, we took a day trip to Caruaru, a medium-sized city further into the interior of Brazil that is known for its huge markets. Incidentally, it is also world-famous for being the birthplace of Mary’s brother Alex – but we mainly went there for the markets.

There was a whole section of the sprawling market devoted to big sacks of beans, rice, lentils, and of course dog food. That’s black-eyed peas on the left and kibbles n’ bits on the right.

And it wouldn’t be a market in Brazil without lots of brightly colored tropical fruits. These red guys are acerolas, and they are sour enough to make lemons seem sweet. But they have a ridiculously high vitamin C content, and make great juice (with a bit of sugar).

The clothes section of the market also made for some interesting photos. We visited during a transition time when some stalls were just opening and others were closing. So there were lots of mannequins in various states of undress. These ones all said HELLO on their backs.

Hanging mannequins were also popular, and apparently not creepy at all once you get used to them. This shot captured the full range of hanging mannequins available, from pelvis to legs to (most disturbingly) child hanging by the neck. Brightly colored religious icons like the ones on the right were also fairly common at the various stalls.

 Last but not least was the “other random stuff” portion of the market, where you can find everything from knock-off PlayStations with awesome names…

...to  standing fans and little brightly colored stuffed animals. 

There was also a traditional arts and crafts part of the market, but we just bought some traditional art instead of taking pictures of it :)

 

Caruaru is also well known as the birthplace of forro (pronounced Fo-HO). Forro is a traditional style of music and dance in the Northeast. The music is played by a 3-5 man band and always includes an accordion, a flute, drums, and a triangle. It was made famous by a guy named Luis Gonzaga, who is an icon throughout the Northeast. He’s the guy with sunglasses and the accordion in the mural to our left.

After the market, we visited the Forro Museum, where we learned a lot more about forro and Luis Gonzaga. Here is Mary in front of the museum, posing with statues of Lampiao and Maria Bonita. These two were famous outlaws back in the days of the sugar plantations who attained legend status by robbing from the rich (plantation owners) and giving to the poor (everyone else). They are also the subjects of lots of forro songs. Hence the statues.

Inside the museum we met this guy, who gave us an informal tour of the museum in a mixture of English and Portuguese. He was also a local artist, who had some work on display in one of the galleries. Here he is with one of his paintings, which was quite nice. Like the museum itself and everything else in it, his art was devoted to celebrating traditional rural life in Northeast Brazil.

Surubim, PE Home of the Vaquejada

After our week on the beach and another stopover in Recife, we hopped on a bus and headed inland to spend some time with Mary’s grandma Lourdes in the small city of Surubim.

We were greeted with many hugs and a massive spread of home-cooked deliciousness. Eating very well became a trend in Surubim -- Dona Lourdes is an amazing cook who never lets your plate stay empty. 

Midwestern grandmas and Brazilian grandmas have one thing in common: they love to feed you!

The table is outdoors in a walled off backyard behind the house called a quintal, which also featured this lovely open air shower. Normally an outdoor cold-water shower in the hot northeast of Brazil would be refreshing, but it was winter and unseasonably cold. It did wake us up in the mornings!

 

The quintal also had lots of flowers like this one.

 

Another view of the quintal. Mary is standing next to the clothesline and just in front of the outhouse. Dona Lourdes washes all of the clothes by hand…

...and these towels too!

This is Peru, the turkey. He also hangs out in the quintal. Back in the day he would have been dinner, but Dona Lourdes has gotten a bit soft in her old age. She gets her meat from the butcher shop and keeps this guy as a pet.

At night we got our own room and slept under the mosquito net. Mary rather enjoyed the feeling of sleeping under lace. Nick was less excited but happy that it kept the lizards from falling into the bed.

Luckily for us, our arrival coincided with the arrival of a circus. Circo Balao Magico set up their big top right next door to Dona Lourdes’ house! Here we are at the opening of the show.

 

And the tight-rope walker

And a guy perched atop a big stack of chairs.

An acrobat who did some cool tricks with a long length of hanging fabric.

.

And probably the most amazing act of all – a guy on a slack-line who stood on one leg and used his foot to flip dishes up into a stack on his head. He even managed to land a teaspoon in the top bowl!

We spent a good deal of time just walking the streets of the city. Here is a statue of Jesus in the center of Surubim – and a construction worker looking down on us from on top of a building.

We went to the big fruit market in the city center. So many different kinds of fruit. And so many colors! Here is Mary and her aunt Lei picking out some melons.

Fresh tomatoes and onions, by the kilo.

Mary and her third cousin Jackson. He had to show Mary everything in the house and tell her what it was – he was also very concerned that Mary finish her mango juice, either to be sure she got all her vitamin C or to free up her hands for playing. Or both.

One day we went with Mary’s grandma to the main cemetery in Surubim, where Mary’s relatives are buried. The first thing you see upon entering is row upon row of these shelf-like mausoleums. These are where middle class families bury their loved ones. Dona Lourdes isn’t actually in distress in this photo – she is just fixing her hair.

 The cemetery also has many of these bigger tombs for wealthier families. Some with crosses on top.

And others with cross-shaped spaces in the walls.

And finally, we saw some simple plots of land with wooden crosses like these, for those whose families can’t afford the other burial options.

This statue in the center of the cemetery is Padre Cicero, a famous priest from the area who was known for helping the poor. He is covered with candle wax because many people light prayer candles around him.

 A street scene from Surubim, which also features many an ‘Oi pod’ telephone and painted yellow walls. This one says ‘Welcome’ in Portuguese and is very close to Dona Lourdes’ house.

Surubim is in the semi-arid sertao region of Brazil, which is not quite a desert but still features lots of cactuses. This guy is leading a donkey cart full of dried cactus, which are used to feed animals like horses - and donkeys.

Just like in Olinda, we saw some really cool murals on walls in Surubim. This one was outside a school, and we thought John Lennon would approve.

Local politicians covered pretty much any flat space with paintings like these. We wished we could have stuck around to cast our votes for HULK!

And just in case you didn’t see the paintings, they also had vans like this one cruising the streets. Those are speakers lining the top, and you couldn’t go much longer than 5 minutes without hearing at least one political jingle (often set to Brazilian pop music). The circus also had a few of these sound-blaster trucks on the streets.

Our favorite candidate. Although in the jingle, his name was decidedly closer to “Hoo-Key” than “Hulk”. Whatever the pronunciation or platform, he still has our votes.

Aside from the barrage of deliciousness we experienced at Grandma’s, we were also introduced to some great restaurant food in Surubim by Lei and her boyfriend Junior. Here is a peixe (fish) stew, which was served in a hot pot at our table. Amazing stuff, even if the four of us couldn’t possibly finish it all.

And here is some churrasco, which was various cuts of beef and pork that we grilled at our table. It kind of reminded us of Korean barbecue, but it also came with freshly squeezed fruit juice. Party. Bonus.

We took a jeep taxi outside of town to visit the Museo de Cachaca, a museum that has thousands of different bottles of the sugar-cane based Brazilian liquor from different areas of the country. Each bottle has a unique label, and comes from a different place and time – some dating back over 50 years. This is the part of the map that shows Pernambuco, with its local cachaca of Pitu.

And here’s Mary in the main display room of the museum. We were amazed by how many different brands and varieties of cachaca had existed over the years. Of course, they also had a wide variety of current cachaca for sample and sale. We picked up some little bottles, which we are still saving for an anniversary toast.

Porto de Galinhas: Praias e Piscinas

The title smudges the truth a little, we actually arrived and stayed in Maracaipe which is one beach down from Porto de Galinhas. Really, it’s just one epically long beach of glory. Mary’s aunt and uncle arranged for us to stay at a beautiful pousada (bed and breakfast) on the beach for the beginning of the trip. Rosangela let it slip that we were on our honeymoon so the manager was quick to set us up in an appropriately romantic room. As you can see, there were hearts everywhere, even on our towels. The best part was the flowers and petals on the floor, bed, and bathroom counter.

The flower petals led to an open balcony where we could lie in a hammock and watch the ocean. The sound of the waves lulled us to sleep at night, and sometimes even during the day.

Breakfast at this place was also one of the highlights of our day. It was huge, as Brazilian breakfasts tend to be. There is a saying that goes, “For breakfast eat like a king, for lunch like a prince, and for dinner like a beggar.” The little veranda filled with tropical plants and songbirds was also a nice touch.

 

 

                    Here is the beach right outside the pousada. We spent a lot of time out here with our shoes off!

 

The sand was amazingly soft and fine. Mary just had to stop and run her fingers through it from time to time.

During the week, we had the beach almost

completely to ourselves. The main beach still

attracted some surfers and sunbathers, but other

parts of the coastline inhabited only by coconut

palm trees and the occasional horse.

The whole coastline is very shallow and teeming with corals. During low tide, suddenly we could see

 strips of sand and rocks emerging from the ocean. Sometimes the ocean even would form shallow

pools in the sand as it receded. All of this made for stunning natural beauty that was always changing

with the tides.
 

 All these formations were invisible every

morning and night; only appearing at noon.

One of the coolest parts of this beach was the piscinas naturais (natural swimming pools). When the tide goes out, the higher shelves of rock and coral trap water between them, forming pools until the tide rises back up over the rocks. These pools were about a mile offshore, visible from the beach but still a long swim away. You can see them beginning to emerge behind all the boats in this picture.

Fortunately, the locals had specially designed boats called jangadas to navigate the shallow waters, and it wasn’t hard to find someone to give us a lift at low tide. Jangadas have flat bottoms and float almost entirely out of the water. Some have sails, but all are manned by jangadeiros (boatmen) with long oars, which are used to push the boat off of rock or sand.

Here is the skeleton of one that we found at the far end of a deserted beach. 

But back to the piscinas naturais... At about noon (low tide), we sailed out to the nearly exposed rock/coral shelves. As we stepped off the jangada into about six inches of water, we were told by our jangadeiro to keep our flip flops on.

Here’s why.

 

The boatman was able to pick up this guy and hand it to us. It tickled Mary’s hand, but would have been a different sensation entirely to step on.

Once we got to the edge of the piscina, we were able to tie our sandals onto the rope and jump in with our snorkeling masks. 

We saw that water wasn’t the only thing trapped in these pools...

Fishes!!!

Mary raised her hands because the fish kept nibbling at her fingers, which also tickled. It was a ticklish time for Mary overall.

 These peixe amarello (yellowfish) dominated the underwater scene everywhere we looked. We saw a couple other species of fish too, but they were too small and fast to get any good pictures. Which was a shame because they were brilliant shades of blue and yellow.

 

The blurry guy in the corner is Nick.

 Here’s Mary posing with the Porto de Galinhas beach in the distance. Between her and the beach, you can see a line of jangadas and other people near the piscinas naturais. And of course, a whole lotta ocean.

We took a jangada up a small river into a mangrove forest. Here we are standing on a sandbar in the river. 

While we were there, our jangadeiro (temporarily) captured some seahorses. This is apparently not too difficult, as he explained how they just wrap themselves around the mangrove roots for food and protection and stay there. After this romantic heart-shaped photo shoot (the male was actually pregnant), he returned them to their home unharmed.

Porto de Galinhas means “Port of Chickens” in Portuguese, although you wouldn’t need to know a word of the language to figure that out. There is chicken-themed art all over town, including all manner of interestingly painted chicken statues.

 

We called the one on the left “Chicken of the Sea”. And on the right is Mary getting ready to kiss Psychedelic Hippy Chicken.

 Here’s Cool Blue Surfer Chicken (he was on a surfboard).

And we called this brightly painted fellow Luiz.

Here's Nick making an important Chicken Phone call...

And finally, a random hanging chicken sculpture outside our room at the cute bed and breakfast where we spent the end of our time in Porto de Galinhas.... 

The cute chicken theme unfortunately has a more sinister background. Since the port is a little difficult to navigate (reefs, sandbars, rocks) it wasn't very frequented in the past. Its relative isolation in combination to its proximity to Recife and Olinda made a good spot for illegal shipping. In particular, Europeans brought in slaves after the slave trade had been declared illegal. The code word for slave was "chicken."

Before checking into the place above, we took a party barge trip to Praia dos Carneiros, stopping along the way for a therapeutic mud rub. They promised Mary would look five years younger, but it hasn’t happened yet. She’s still crossing her fingers...

 

 As we got off the barge, we were greeted by the ringing bell of a particularly resourceful ice-cream seller. We thought the floating cooler was a nice touch.

 

The water at the beach was calm and crystal clear because huge sandbars, reefs, and rocks created a bay that stopped the ocean waves. The reefs and rocks also created more piscinas naturais, and we were able to walk out on the rocks at low tide. Here’s a shot of Mary on the rocks.

One of the many horse carts for anyone who wanted a ride up and down Praia dos Carneiros. Look carefully at the horse's head. Yup, that's a hat.

This old church was the only building right on the beach, and had survived for hundreds of years.

Grilled fish on the beach – pricey but freshly caught!

 Back at Porto de Galinhas, a view of jangadas with festive sails. Coconut water from green coconuts like these were refreshing and (refreshingly) everywhere.

 

Pineapples were also in season, and this handy cart served them full of pina coladas made with cachaça, the Brazilian national liquor. When you’re finished with your drink you get to eat the glass!

But really the best way to drink cachaça is in a caipirinha, a drink made with ice, crushed limes, and cane sugar. Here we were sipping them while listening to a guy play old Brazilian songs on an acoustic guitar at a beachside bar.

A rainbow and some jangadas as seen from the next beach bar down...

 

And out comes the sun! (Despite being the rainy season, our honeymoon luck held out and it was actually quite sunny for most of our week in Porto... Que sorte!)